Light appears as a suggestion on the horizon. A thinning of the darkness, before its slow claim on the mountains and valleys around Longyearbyen. In early February this happens for just a few hours of each day.
In the world's northernmost town, after four months of complete darkness, the long dawn is something to celebrate, and what better way than with people and music? This year, I went to Polar Jazz 2026 in Svalbard to see, feel and hear the Arctic for myself.
Svalbard Through the Ages
Since the 1600s, Svalbard has passed through the cycles of the human ages, from discovery, development and exploitation to depletion, decline, abandonment, destruction during WWII and rediscovery. First came the explorers, then the whalers, trappers and hunters, scientists and miners. The remnants of all these ages, in the form of buildings, graves, machinery and abandoned mines, silent in thawing permafrost.
Now come researchers, climate scientists, marine biologists, adventurers and those of us drawn north to witness its extraordinary beauty and to understand more about its history and the people who endured to be part of its story. Svalbard is warming faster than anywhere else on Earth.
Will this be an age that will end in decline and abandonment too?
Guardians and Protectors
At Polar Jazz, I saw first-hand that this is a place of learning, science and deep respect for the archipelago.
The love that people have for this unique place was there in the performances and original music written and inspired by the Arctic. It was also in their stories and community spirit, not to mention the best version of ‘Feeling Good’ I have ever heard, which was delivered by a UNIS scientist.
I felt from them a sense of guardianship, protection and advocacy, although it would be naïve to think that its strategic importance has disappeared. Svalbard's future may yet be influenced by people far from it.
We have to believe it can be saved though don't we?
A Songwriter's Dream
It was a dream come true to experience Svalbard for myself. As a songwriter, I’m drawn to human stories, and Svalbard has them in abundance. Stories of exploration, discovery, failure, destruction, endurance and survival.
Whilst I was there, I picked up a book of Arctic photographs and at the back was Robert W. Service's poem, ‘The Spell of the Yukon’. It is about a different part of the Arctic but the essence of it felt familiar here too.
“There’s a land where the mountains are nameless, And the rivers all run God knows where; There are lives that are erring and aimless, And deaths that just hang by a hair; There are hardships that nobody reckons, there are valleys unpeopled and still; There’s a land oh, it beckons and beckons, And I want to go back and I will.”
I want to go back, and I probably will.